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In just a few months, we will be coming on the 5-year anniversary of COVID-19. During that time, we hunkered down, bought tons of athleisure, and stared at our forlorn office clothing sitting unworn in our closets. Fast forward a few years to present day and much like bootcut jeans are back in style, the pendulum is starting to veer back towards a more tailored style. This time around, the suits may not be as constricting, but there is certainly more structure to fall’s fashion than the cozy comfy sweatpants and leggings that the whole world came to embrace upon working from home. Among locations that are not multi-story or in enclosed malls, we see that Ann Taylor increased traffic to its locations in March, June, and August compared to last year, and that Polo Ralph Lauren has also seen increases in the past few months. This particular grouping of brands all has at least 30 or more locations each tracked by Placer and tend to be ubiquitous at many malls or as standalone boutiques. A recent visit to Banana Republic indicated a merchandising assortment that appeared to be more than 50% office wear in the women’s section, with blazers and tailored pants, silky shirts, and dresses ready to be accessorized with heels and some statement jewelry.
However, we are seeing even larger increases in year-over-year traffic at some of the more specialized/high-end brands, particularly in women’s contemporary that offer sharp-looking items that look just as polished at the boardroom or the PTA meeting, like the blazers at Veronica Beard or the “Effortless Pant” from Aritzia that is a smash hit on social media. The majority of this next grouping of brands got their start at department stores or specialty retailers, but with increased success, many are launching their own brick-and-mortar boutiques. Clearly, having a holy grail item that is on the fashion editors’ favorites list gives a boost to store traffic. One of the trends we are seeing is the continuation of the love for comfort everyone adopted during Covid mixed with a slightly more structured but still understated minimalist but luxe aesthetic, like COS. Theory, a wardrobe staple with its neutral color palette and streamlined silhouettes, has been generating positive year-over-year traffic during the back-to-school and fall season. Vince, also featuring rather understated and neutral basics, also saw its traffic lift for the fall season. Eileen Fisher is another interesting brand. Once regarded as clothing adapted to your mom’s generation, Gen Z is also starting to embrace it for its softness and sustainability, and it is one of the more popular brands to buy secondhand. In April of this year, Guess and WHP Global completed the acquisition of rag & bone, which has long been hailed for their on-trend jeans and boots. Time will tell what direction they will take the brand, or if they will stick with its tried-and-true New York roots.
Another brand to keep an eye on that we’re already familiar with from prestige department stores like Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, and Saks Fifth Avenue is L’Agence. This brand goes seamlessly from day to night with classics like tweed blazers, satiny tank tops, and perfectly-fitting jeans. They’ve now expanded to more stand-alone stores, including Southern California shopping meccas like Malibu and Beverly Hills. While the Malibu one just opened in late fall 2023, its traffic has been growing steadily upwards, even overtaking that of the Beverly Hills outpost of late.
One interesting thing to note is that the Malibu location attracts a higher proportion of its audience during the morning hours, whereas the Beverly Hills location gets the evening crowd. This information would be useful for staffing purposes or for knowing when to hold events.
